Paris fashion designer Thomas Derrien makes perfect little dresses, skirts, jackets and more that are at once elegant and carefree. Enamored with fashion as a child, Thomas went on to study fashion design in Paris and later did design work for Claude Montana, Lanvin, Dorothée Bis, and Hermès. He launched his own brand and opened his first store in 2008 during the depths of the global recession, and he now has visions of exporting his line and opening a second store. With a clever eye for construction and a penchant for playful details and materials, Thomas offers women chic and soul-satisfying treasures culled from a world of feminine inspiration he calls infinite.
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Tell me your background as a fashion designer. Did you attend design school? Have you worked for other designers?
I arrived in Paris twenty years ago to attend a fashion school called Studio Berçot, and I was taught and trained there two years by Marie Rucki. I then worked with Claude Montana’s team for four years when he had his own line and was also in charge of couture at Lanvin. After that, Jacqueline Jacobson recruited me for Dorothée Bis, where I stayed for three years. In 1996, I became a freelance fashion designer and designed scarves for Lanvin and leather accessories such as gloves and handbags for Hermès. During this period of time, I also worked for some major retail outlets throughout Europe and Asia.
Were you an artistic child? Where did you grow up, and what were some of the early influences in your life that eventually led you to fashion design?
I grew up in a small village 100 kilometers north of Paris called Crèvecoeur-le-Grand. For as long as I can remember, I think I always wanted to become a fashion designer. When somebody would ask me what I would like to be when I grow up, the answer was unwaveringly: I want to make dresses! My early influences must have been the women in the family who were all very elegant and beautiful. I remember growing up surrounded by their kind and tender look, which must have subconsciously determined my tastes and my choices too.
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
I noticed you work with a range of materials, including fur for your winter collection. Do you favor certain materials for their tactile and visual quality, or even precisely because they challenge you creatively?
The choice of fabrics and materials and how they match together is decisive in the early stages of a new collection. It’s what inspires me first and foremost. For this winter collection, fur has been a pivotal element in the design of the silouette. I deliberately chose very unconventional colours (purple, orange, pink…), which allowed me to work this feminine accessory in a more playful and joyous way than I would have done if I had chosen traditional fur colours.
Winter 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Winter 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Winter 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
There is a beautiful simplicity in the lines of your work, but the seam details and use of other elements like buttons show a deeper complexity to your designs. Do you sketch designs with this level of detail in mind, or does this detail come about as you work with the fabric?
It’s only when I have all the various elements gathered around me (fabrics, lining, buttons, buckles, etc…) that I can even begin doing some sketching. I sketch the details of my designs as precisely and accurately as possible. I also try to keep in mind the proportions in terms of colour. At the end of the day, the line is often simple — but if you pay attention to details, the sketches reveal all the complexity of the outfit to come.
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Winter 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
Looking at the range of your work, there seems to be a common aesthetic — sort of a late 1950′s to mid 1960′s sensibility. Do you envision a certain ideal or era in design, or do you have a muse in mind when you design?
As a matter of fact, I am very much influenced by the late 1950’s and 1960’s at the moment. I find in that period the inspiration for simple and yet structured lines. I don’t have a muse in mind when I design. I would easily get bored thinking about just one muse, when in fact the possibility of inspiration with women is infinite.
Thomas Derrien display at WH Smith in Paris
Winter 2008 collection by Thomas Derrien, photo ©ARCADIUS
Winter 2008 collection by Thomas Derrien, photo ©ARCADIUS
What inspires your designs? Do you listen to music, watch movies, or look at other art forms for inspiration?
Everything inspires my designs! It could be a painting exhibition, a concert, a TV series. I am quite easy to please as long as it is entertaining enough!
How are you showing your work, and have you launched your own line?
I created my own brand Thomas Derrien in 2008 and launched my own line in May of 2008 with the opening of a store in the 7th arrondissement of Paris.
Thomas Derrien's store in the 7th arrondissement in Paris
Living in Paris, do you feel your culture supports and appreciates your work?
The Parisian culture has had so many great fashion moments that naturally my work benefits from this rich history and is nourished by it.
As a young designer, what impact do you think the global recession has had on building your business? Are you finding creative ways of getting your name and your designs out there?
As I opened my store at the worst possible time of the global recession, I guess it can only get better!
I try to change the window displays once a week to show as much of my work as I can, and I must say I’m not afraid of using as many props and eye-catching colours as possible to catch the attention of people strolling by! And judging by their reactions, it seems to be working quite well!
Window display at Thomas Derrien's store in Paris
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien
What’s next for you, and do you have certain dreams of how your work will evolve?
I’d like to develop the brand by exporting the line abroad. I would also like to open a second store where I could show my work differently. I have a few merchandising ideas that I would like to explore. I would also like to continue to deliver a made-to-measure service to my customers. They already can choose within a range of fabrics and colours to adapt existing designs to their wardrobe and size.
Summer 2009 collection by Thomas Derrien, photo ©ARCADIUS
What are some of your favorite things, whether they directly impact your work or just make you happy?
Accidentally bumping into a woman who is nonchalantly wearing one of my designs makes me really happy. Otherwise, spending hours looking out at the horizon from a deserted sandy beach!
Thomas Derrien
Thomas Derrien’s store in the 7th arrondissement is located at 39, rue Vaneau, 75007 Paris.
His website will be ready soon!
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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
In a word – exquisite. You are inspiring and I love what you are doing with your store window to draw people in.
Love the yellow dress! And the cut and construction of the jackets are wonderful. If I make it to Paris any time soon, I would certainly love to come see Thomas’ store.
My son Ben says his designs make him think of rock stars or rainy days. I just think, hmmm, JOYOUS, YUMMY, AND PRO-WOMAN (What’s not to like?!) An insightful interview for those of us who’ll never be on the inside of the creative process of designing divine dresses. LOVE the HATS and the snuggly feel of the (ROWR) skirt. Need to swing by and lecher les vitrines (lick the windows=window shop) chez Thomas Derrien! Thank YOU!
What’s with the rubber hats? I enjoy mixing textures, but I don’t know if I could swing the rubber bucket hat. My 8-year-old says she would definitely work the rubber hat. In black.